Essio’s pod and cartridge system is quick and easy to install in the shower.

The New Radicals

Brands are forging a new level of independence and freedom with packaging that benefits—and satisfies—all.

Written by Sophie Maxwell, Pearlfisher

Beauty has never taken—or rather been pushed to take— such a radical step in its creative direction. Whereas once our fashion choices—or perhaps, our hair color—was the easiest way to make an individual statement, now, beauty brands are encouraging us to make our faces and bodies the chosen canvas.

The new Japanese “bagel head” craze has captured global beauty headlines and consumer interest across the globe. And the market for beauty services—from scalloping eyelashes to vajazzling—has probably never seen stronger demand or been more diverse. Beauty brands, of course, want their share of this desire and following. In the past few years, they have responded quickly to a consumer need for personal interpretation and a feeling of individuality. However, packaging will always be bound by certain legislative or manufacturing constrictions, and it is hard to indulge in truly free and unfettered thinking to meet this next new step—the indulgence in a conscious act of self-construction.

This mindset is undoubtedly mirroring the trend across many of the arts (and indeed other brand) sectors for creative independence.

Personalization, co-creation and competitions to help design brands have been around for a while. But the continuing levels of activity and initiatives point to the increasing consumer desire to interact and be part of brands’ creation and development. And also to the path that brands are forging, as they look to use their expertise to help facilitate a new world that plays to this new level of independence and freedom that benefits—and satisfies—all.

Illamasqua’s collections make a bold breakthrough in attitude and approach.

One of the undisputed leaders of this movement is Illamasqua. The Illamasqua Human Fundamentalism range launched this past Spring with a philosophy and ad campaign that blew the beauty rules out of the water: “It’s becoming who you are and not who you’re told to be. Beauty isn’t conformity, but the fundamental human desire to express your inner self on the outside… We stand for freedom of expression, embracing our glorious imperfections and showing the world we’re not ordinary but extraordinary, even if society refuses to accept it.” (Source: www.illamasqua.com)

This commitment to difference is evidenced further through the brand’s alliance with the Sophie Lancaster Foundation—created in memory of a teenager kicked to death for daring to look different—and their designated creation of S.O.P.H.I.E. products.

But while the naming, philosophies and colors of most of Illamasqua’s collections boldly make such an unbelievable breakthrough in attitude and approach, the packaging is the same as the rest of the ranges in the brand portfolio. We admire the brand immensely and this is in no way a criticism, just an observation.

When it comes to packaging, there are currently only a few very select brands putting themselves out there at this level and boldly taking the risk to be as different as their consumers.

The unique holder for Ellis Faas cosmetics resembles a rifle being loaded with bullets as each torpedo-shaped tool is placed in the unit.

A personal favorite is the beautifully designed packaging system developed by makeup artist Ellis Faas.

“Having always been fascinated by the practicality of military goods, Ellis felt inspired to create such usability in her line. The holder resembles a rifle being loaded with bullets as each torpedo-shaped tool is placed in the unit. To add to the usability, Ellis developed clips for a more compact and customizable way to travel with the products.” (Source: Ellis Faas)

It’s compact, practical, durable and sleek—and definitely edgy. It can be used in so many different combinations and, let’s face it, it’s a startlingly original alternative to a messy cosmetics bag. They carry a range that Faas says has been inspired by “human colors—colors that by nature, exist in every human body.”

Another brand new structural breakaway comes from Australian aromatherapy brand Essio, which brings aromatherapy into the home with a pod and cartridge system that is quick and easy to install. The cartridge clips onto the shower pipe with pods connecting and twisting easily into place to create an aroma when tilted into the water stream. The user controls the intensity of the aroma simply by tilting the cartridge up while showering. It’s a product that gives the consumer the control for when, where and how long they use it.

It’s a straightforward, technical solution with an elegant and contemporary design, rather than being overtly girly, and one that rigidly breaks away from the image of traditional aromatherapy.

Essio shows that it’s not necessarily about blatant shock tactics but still about creating a huge shift from what has gone before—in both the category and beyond—radical and relative.

The design for new feminine hygiene brand, TOM, uses both descriptive language and illustration to talk to a discerning female audience.

Another good example of this comes from new feminine hygiene brand, TOM. The design is a beacon on shelf not just for the organic sector it sits in, but for this category as a whole. The design uses both descriptive language and illustration and understands the importance of talking to a discerning female audience by drawing on beauty cues and a fresh design approach.

“The visual cues of the packaging design combine a stylish, contemporary femininity, a healthy dose of interest and intrigue with a secondary visual language of eco-sustainability. The result is a range of fresh packaging that not only stands out in the feminine hygiene category, but connects with TOM’s traditional audience, while attracting a new, broader set of customers,” says David Ansett, chief creator of brand, Truly Deeply.

Brands need to decide whether this shift toward creative freedom and independence applies to them—or, at least, to what degree they want to be open to the views of their audience. But the field is undoubtedly wide open for brands to play with the parameters of craft, innovation and design and look for revolutionary ways to make an impact—steering their look away from the restricted, the uniform and the safe, to a state of connection, contemporariness and constant evolution.

About the author

Sophie Maxwell is insight director at Pearlfisher; [email protected], www.pearlfisher.com